Why come here?
The only place to start - head to The Khao San Road
Getting to Khao San Road
Where to stay on Khao San
Guesthouses on the Khao San Road
Guesthouses worthy of a mention
Food guide and eating out
Where to go and a suggested 4 day itinerary
Getting Around
Currency
Cost
Phrases
Hints and tips on surviving Thailand

Why come here?
You've seen 'The Beach' and it inspired you? You've seen 'Brokedown Palace' and it appalled you? Maybe it's the various Bond films that have been filmed here, the exotic location and the colourful culture making it an ideal location for Spielberg and his mates. Or, like most backpackers, you are here because your plane has to refuel at some point on the way to Australia so you thought you would take the opportunity to stay for a couple of days and see what it is all about!

No doubt the mere mention of the name Bangkok to people who haven't been here brings to the mind images drugs, prisons, prostitution and a whole way of life you know nothing about. If you are reading this and happen to be 18, female and are considering coming here alone, your family and friends will be doing everything in their power to dissuade you, especially if your granddad had a bad experience here in the war!! The fact is this whatever you heard about Thailand, it's probably true…except the bits about the drugs, bad people, dangerous situations etc.

The country and its people provide some of the most extreme contrasts witnessed anywhere in the world. Where the main religion is Buddhism, the national sport is the most brutal martial art on the face of the planet. Where the most popular ride is a Mercedes-Benz, there are parts of the country that seemingly haven't noticed much of the modern world. Nowhere are these extremities more apparent than in Bangkok, the country's capital city.

Despite its romantic appeal, Bangkok is a huge sprawling modern city sharing the same problems every modern city faces. Pollution, crime, chaos - you'll find it all there. But unlike some cities, Bangkok offers beauty, sophistication and culture alongside the warmth and care of people who are, in general, some of the kindest you can hope to meet.

Frankly, there's nowhere quite like Bangkok, and very much as the local religion dictates, take the middle path, think about what you are doing, and you can comfortably and safely encounter the full range of experience Bangkok has to offer. As someone who has lived here for nearly 15 years, there's never been an altercation, there's never been a threat… and I have always remained fascinated. You will certainly have a good time in Bangkok. The 'tourist' bit everyone has to do (temples, palaces, rivers, parks, etc.) is one of the most satisfying… If you don't understand the relevance of a particular historical or religious site, don't worry - just switch off and take in the smells and colours! And of course, there's the nightlife. Although restrictions are currently in place about the times entertainment establishments can stay open until (most have to close at 02:00), there is still something for everyone, WHATEVER your taste.

The only place to start - head to The Khao San Road
The most important thing to do when you arrive in a city unlike anywhere you've ever been in the world is to find a safe place to sit down, collect your thoughts and generally chill out and get your bearings. Just like everywhere else in the world, disorientation can lead to you wanting to take the first plane out of there, so it's important to plan what you are going to do when you arrive. In Bangkok that place is called the Khao San Road.

Basically it is a road in the middle of Bangkok where backpackers from all over the world meet up. It is full of hostels, hotels, internet cafes, restaurants and most importantly, other backpackers, like you, who have just arrived in a city that may feel odd and a little daunting. You will also meet loads of other backpackers who have been there for a while or are passing through who will be able to help you out and give you tips and hints on countries and places to visit. It is safe, reliable and predictable and it will enable you to get your bearings and settle into the whole travelling thing.

This is an essential first port of call and it is from here that I will base this guide. Yes, it is the same Khao San Road you saw in 'The Beach', but leave your preconceptions at home; Khao San Road is almost certainly nothing like what you imagine it to be. As Joe Cummings, writer of Lonely Planet Guidebooks points out, "Khao San Road is Thailand, but it's an internationalised piece of Thailand." The place is completely geared towards catering for those new to Thailand who are about to freak out - and there are a LOT of freaking foreigners here!

Guesthouses, restaurants, Internet cafes, international calls, laundry, tattoos - the lot: whatever you need to get you through the first couple of days, it's here. Not surprisingly it has become known as a halfway house between the East and West, and, as Alex Garland calls it, a 'decompression chamber for all those about to leave Thailand'. As such it's commercial, at times too businesslike, but generally a very cool place to be! Most importantly for you, it's a place where you can get your head together before you start your travels in earnest.

Getting to Khao San Road
There are a number of ways to get to Khao San road from Don Muang Airport (the airport you will fly in to). First of all, taxis. Note that there is a 50 Baht ($1US = 45 Baht) surcharge on top of the fare for trips from the airport, so don't think you are being ripped of when they ask for it. The airport is quite a way from Khao San and the fare will cost about 130-150 Baht (around 3$US). If you try and speak a little Thai to the driver you'll be in a better position. Tell the driver "Yak by Trot Khao San." If he/she asks you 'By Tang Duan mai?', you are being asked if you want to go by Expressway. This is probably the best option if you want to get there quickly, but you'll be asked to pay the Expressway fare - another 40 Baht.

If your budget is tight why not meet up with other travellers heading to the same destination on the plane or at the airport? They are very easy to recognise and, if you are by yourself, you will make some instant friends. If you are on a tight budget, perhaps taxis are not for you. Airport Bus # A2 runs to Sanam Luang and stops close to Khao San Road. It's got air-conditioning and it's comfortable - you'll see that the destinations are in English on the side of the bus so you don't need to worry about heading off to Cambodia and not being able to get back! The cost is around 80 Baht and these buses run from 05:30 - 00:30. Regular (red and white) buses are the cheapest - 3.50 Baht! They can be absolutely packed though - you'll see what I mean! Bus # 59 passes close to Khao San. If you tell the conductor "Tung Khao San Lao Bok Du-ay" you should (!) be told where to get off.

Another option is the train. Walk out of Don Muang, cross the four-lane highway (over the footbridge is best and by far the safest option…you will see what I mean when you see the traffic there!!) and you'll see a train station. The closest station to Khao San is Hualampong. From there, take a taxi or you can get a boat. I wouldn't really recommend it as it can be quite complicated and a completely unromantic start to your visit, especially after a long flight! My advice? It is worth spending a bit of cash getting you safely, quickly and easily to where you want to go. Book a hotel / hostel from home and then show the taxi driver the name of the hotel / hostel you want to go to. No hassle and it will only cost you about 10 pounds. Make sure you have this cash available in small notes as a few naive tourists have been known to be instantly ripped off by handing big notes over to taxi drivers who try their luck (the same anywhere in the world).

Where to stay on Khao San
Khao San Road is an enormous warren of guesthouses and other businesses designed to support travellers. There are two ways of finding accommodation: 1. If you are feeling strong and brave, head straight down to Khao San and start looking around. Be warned though - high season is post September and the whole street can be full - I mean literally not a bed in sight. 2. If you want to avoid trudging your backpack from place to place practising your Pidgin English, or if you feel you need the security of knowing you have a place to go to, book a hotel in advance for your first day or couple of days. My advice?

For first timers to Bangkok, especially those who are a bit nervous (everyone is by the way!), book something up from home. It is quite common for parents to pay for their kids first couple of nights in a nice hotel so that they can get their bearings. Two nights in a nice hotel might only cost 50 pound, not a lot for your parent's piece of mind! Secure in the knowledge that you at least have a room for the night, your first mission should be to find alternative accommodation at the price you need. Why don't you ask someone to buy you your first few days in Bangkok as a present? It may only cost them about 30 pounds and will be an extremely useful present and an awesome start to your trip! Better than socks!

Starting your trip in style? One place you can book in advance is: Viengtai Hotel (click here for a booking form). This is a real hotel at real hotel prices. 164 rooms, all with private bathroom and air-conditioning. A single room costs 1,225 Baht (around US$27) a night, a double room 1,575-1,750 Baht ($US35-40) a night. For this you get 24-hour room service, a fully licensed bar, a swimming pool, and shops. (You will get a discount though if you book through www.khaosanroad.com - and please note: We made this booking arrangement AFTER this article was published. It's a good place to stay!).

Guesthouses on the Khao San Road
The guesthouses on Khao San range from gritty travellers' crash pads to nice places your mother might want to stay in. As such there's a range of prices, from 75 Baht (US$1.50) a night for a bed in a corridor, to 350-400 Baht (around $US10) and beyond a night for the nicer places in the area. In addition, prices can change depending on local conditions - you really do have to hunt around and take a look at rooms.

Which are the best? Check out reviews on www.khaosanroad.com/accommodation. Being asked to recommend places to stay on Khao San becomes difficult because each person has their budget and conditions. However, people send in emails to www.khaosanroad.com and recommend places because they had a good time there, so it should be enough to pass on these recommendations.

Guesthouses worthy of a mention
One place that consistently gets praise is D&D (Tel: (662) 629-0526-8 Fax: (662) 629-0529). One of the bigger establishments on Khao San Road - check out their huge neon sign as part of the Khao San skyline! Very much a hotel approach here, there's an air-conditioner in every room alongside a hot and cold-water shower and 15 channels of cable television! A single room is 350 Baht per night, a double, 500 Baht per night. A room for three people costs 800 Baht a night and a family room costs 1,000 Baht (a good reason to find a groupm of people onn the plane or at the airport). In 'Building 2' a single costs 450 Baht, a double 600 Baht, and triple 900 Baht. If you have the money, booking in here for a couple of nights might prove an excellent "second stage" to your decompression!

Worthy of note is Marco Polo Guesthouse. It's one of the originals - been on Khao San a long time. Functional comes to mind alongside reasonable. 55 rooms on offer, all single, each one with a bathroom/shower. 250 Baht for a room with a cold water shower, 300 Baht for a room with a hot shower. A 300 Baht key deposit applies. Best part: 10% discount for people who eat at the Suzie Pub!!

Au Thong Guest House on Thanon Rambuttri (the road parallel with Khao San Road) also gets points from people who have stayed there - a clean, fanned twin-share room goes for 300 Baht.

Prakorb's House (281-1345) is a genuine traveller's guesthouse. Housed in a real Thai building that has stood on Khao San Road for over 80 years, Prakorb's House has only 10 rooms available, singles at 100 Baht per night, doubles at 200 Baht per night. Run by Khun Aswin, a 7-year veteran of Khao San Road. The rooms are though part of the 'traveller' experience - some have pretty thin partitions, so be warned!

Another mentioned by travellers is CH1 Guesthouse. Part of a chain of guesthouses in and around Khao San Road, CH1 Guesthouse offers five single rooms available at 100 Baht a night. Rooms for up to three beds 250 Baht a night. No air-conditioning and shared bathroom and showers. Excellent downstairs restaurant serves Thai and European food alongside beer, spirits, cocktails and soft drinks. Siam Oriental Room & Restaurant (629-0312-13) has 50 rooms available ranging from 240 Baht a night (1-2 people, fan, cold shower) to 600 Baht a night (4 persons cold shower, air-conditioning and fan). Hot showers available in some rooms, although you will rarely need them!

Peachy Guesthouse is also noted, big rooms with a fan at 160 Baht a night considered by most excellent value. But as I said before, there are scores of places to stay on Khao San, and it's best to do some legwork to find exactly what you want. This is also a good way of having a look round the area, seeing what it's all about and also meeting other people like you.

Food guide and eating out Budget meals
On KSR there is an excellent range of noodles and spring rolls. 10 Baht a shot - doesn't get any cheaper or more delicious. However, if you want real Thai food at a reasonable price you need to get off KSR a bit. Walk away from the police station and look out for the Suzie Pub sign on your left. Walk down the alley under the sign right to the end. Turn right and keep on walking until you get to the end of the road... There you will see a Pizza place... a Swenson's... and a whole lot of tiny little stalls offering the real thing... If there is nothing there that you like, do a 180 degree turn and walk to the opposite end of the road... There you'll see pretty much the same thing... Plenty to choose from, safe to eat, and delicious...

Middle of the range
Virtually everywhere on Khao San Road offers Thai food. It's good, but it's not especially authentic... Remember the decompression chamber? Well, if you went straight into Thai food you'd be in trouble... A couple of places that have received praise on www.khaosanroad.com are Sidewalk Cafe about a quarter of the way down Khao San Road on your left if you are going towards the police station. The ornate entrance leading into Sidewalk Cafe is one of the main features on Khao San. 24-hour service. 30 tables - this is a big outdoor restaurant with a wide variety of Thai and Western food, fresh coffee, and alcoholic beverages that include beer, spirits and cocktails.

Another place is Khao Sarn Center - again on the left but much closer to the police station as you walk towards it... Like Sidewalk, Khao Sarn Center offers Thai and European food…

Top Dog On Khao San
That means foreign food! I don't think there's much there in the way of cutting edge Thai cuisine… Although I might be wrong - things change fast on Khao San. If you go off Khao San Road you'll find something in the local area… but be warned. Top of the range means more authentic… more authentic means "HOT" … I kid you not… If you think Coleman's mustard is hot… mix that with battery acid and that's about what you have… we are talking physical pain. One of my favorite hobbies was to go to a leading hotel to eat. Their restaurant had a menu that measured things by the number of pictures of chilies next to an item… One chili… not so hot… three chilies very hot. Problem is they measured things by local standards. It was good fun watching foreigners new to the country trying to stifle coughing, wheezing and gagging fits in an attempt to show they weren't really in trouble and that they were travel savvy… Take it easy and get into it slowly or you will make yourself ill - you'll almost certainly get diarrhea if you eat something too hot… It's so different, you'll probably get it anyway.

And so to what to order… Well... stealing (but adapting) the hotels idea, here are my recommendations…

Beef = Nua
Fish = Brar
Pork = Moo
Gung = Prawns

Cow Pat Guy/Moo/Nua - Meat of your choice and fried rice

Often the staple diet of the traveler… not a trace of chili, tasty, and safe. Flash fried rice and chicken gets rid of any bacteria that might have been in there, a few spring onions garnish this treat. Comes in at around 20 Baht on the street, up to 100 Baht in a fancy hotel, with no significant difference between the two… Pat Thai Guy/Moo Noodles fried alongside the meat of your choice and bits of tofu - vegetarians like this one because you can have it without meat. Again, another staple. You put the chili on after this is cooked so it's a safe bet. In fact it can be bland. Tip: they put little dried fish in it - I hate them and most foreigners I know hate them too. When you ask for this dish say "Mai ow gung heng" You won't get them.

Som Tam

This is a salad… although it doesn't look like it. Papaya and a range of other vegetables are bashed up with a big pestle and mortar-type thing, until they are almost in a paste. Again, this is one they throw 'gung heng' into. They also throw a lot of chili in. Thai women in rural areas eat this with masses of chilies to lose weight - the effect is to keep them on the toilet all day and hence they lose the kilos… not advised. If you want to avoid losing weight in this way, tell the restaurant "Mai ow pet" (I don't want hot). Having said this, if this is your first time, with all that roughage and even some chili, you'll get a bad stomach… I can guarantee it… Be careful when you eat this… the night before a 16-hour bus ride is not advised… Best eaten with 'Cow Ne-ow" - a very sticky rice. Anywhere between 1 and 4 toilets, depending on how much chilli they put in.

Gy Pat Mit Mung Muang

A reasonably safe bet. Fried chicken with vegetables and cashew nuts - damn fine. They put in big pieces of chili… these are not for eating. They are not hot, they create a mild spice Eat one and you'll find they are like leather and you'll get a bad stomach. Eaten with boiled rice (or "Cow Plau").

Geng Gurry Guy/Moo/Nua

Closest thing to an Indian looking and tasting curry. Again, depending on where you eat it, it could be lethal, but it's usually only reasonably spicy… Better ask for 'not hot' though! Eaten with rice.

Dom Yum Gung

Light blue touch paper and stand well back… Unless this is hot, it's not Dom Yum Gung. A soup containing chili, chili, prawns, lemon grass, and chili. Apparently, this dish can stave off intestinal cancer, but if you get a hot one, you might think intestinal cancer is a safer bet! This is THE Thai dish - almost a national symbol. You can get vegetarian versions of it, but they are not the same. You should try it… It's really good… You won't taste anything like it anywhere else. And once you get used to the chili this soup gives you a remarkable feeling of well being. Again - take care when you eat this.

That's enough to be getting on with - should get you through you first few meals.

Where to go and a suggested 4 day itinerary
OK - so you've got your head together and found yourself a guesthouse that meets your budget. Now it's time to enjoy yourself. Of course, what you want to do with your time dictates the type of thing you'll want to do, so in many respects it's difficult to map out an itinerary that will meet everyone's requirements. But there are a few essentials, and luckily, if you are on Khao San, you are pretty much in the heart of the 'touristy' things to do.

Get a map and then talk to others… Get yourself a map of Bangkok - at 40 Baht (US$1) the best money you will ever spend here! You'll find on the back of most maps there's a smaller map indicating what's around the Banglamphu area - the general area around Khao San. The best thing to do though is to talk to a few people as even after a couple of days other travellers become old-hands and they'll give you good advice on things to do. In absence of that advice and to help get you started I have written the following itinerary and a few suggestions:

Day 1

Very simple:

1. Organize safe, clean, quality / recommended accommodation on or around the Khao San Road. Get there and settle in.

2. Get your gear in a safe place and wander around the Khao San Road to check out what's going on…

why not grab a beer or a coke and chill out whilst watching the world go by! Take a card for the guesthouse or get the owner to write down the name of where you are in case you get lost.

3. Don't go far and try and meet a group of like-minded people. Have a meal with them that evening, go to bed early (ish!)…it's always best to wake up feeling refreshed when exploring somewhere new

Day 2

1. Sanam Luang

Fortified by a banana pancake and a cup of coffee for breakfast, a stroll around Sanam Luang is a great place to start. Sanam Luang is known as the 'King's Park' - it's the place where numerous royal events and ceremonies take place. Simply put, it's a nice meeting place. Take a stroll around and take in what's happening. A number of people fly kites there - a very relaxing thing to watch. As with everywhere in Bangkok, you can buy food and sit down and enjoy the day. A good place to start, not least because it's pretty close to some key touristy places.

2. The Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew

Together in the same compound the Wat Phra Kaew (the Temple of the Emerald Buddha) are some of the most beautiful buildings you could hope to visit and they are in walking distance from Khao San. They do have their drawbacks though. As far as the authentic experience is concerned, forget it! The place is a veritable United Nations with herds of people taking pictures and getting in each other's way. If you can ignore all that (!!??), they deliver on their promise. The Grand Palace is another place where royal ceremonies take place and huge murals decorate the interior taking tales of key events in Thailand's ancient history. Rich golds, oranges and blues mix to titillate your senses. Wat Phra Kaew (the Temple of the Emerald Buddha) is a temple of special religious significance to Thais. A 66-cm high Buddha carved of Jade wears robes that are changed by the King of Thailand as the seasons change. Walking around these temples will give you the first indication that you really are in Asia! And being charged for the experience will give you your first encounter with the 'double-pricing' Thailand is famous for. Entry for foreigners is 125 Baht (around US$3), for Thais it's free. These are highly important places and they won't allow you in if you are wearing shorts or low-cut blouses, etc.

Two important points:

1. As a visitor to Thailand it is only right that you pay to enter tourist attractions as your money will be used to upkeep whatever it is you have come to see - so please don't take offence or try to scam free entry

2. It is EXTREMELY important that you are aware that when entering sacred places, whether in Thailand or anywhere else around the world, that you pay attention to what you wear and the way you behave. Sarongs should be worn to cover legs, shoulders etc. Girls may be asked at times to cover their heads. Please treat this seriously and do NOT offend through ignorance.

That should be enough for your first day - plenty to see. Once you've finished you'll be ready to enjoy some food and some nightlife on Khao San…

Day 3

1. Wat Pho

Another temple that's worth a visit is Wat Pho - and again, it's within walking distance of Khao San (on the other side of Sanam Luang) and close to The Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew. Wat Po is famous for housing a giant reclining Buddha depicting the Lord Buddha as he received enlightenment before entering nirvana. Wat Pho is a must for your itinerary. The Buddha is 46 meters long and 15 meters high and it really is an impressive sight. However, Wat Po has more to offer. This is where all the masseurs have learnt their trade. Wat Po provides Thai massage tuition and courses are available in English. You can also get a medicinal massage for around 200 Baht per hour. If you are still feeling the effects of your flight to Thailand, or you're still stressed about being in Thailand - spend a couple of hours here having a massage. When you leave you WILL be a different person! Believe me! This is better than Xannax! You'll need the whole morning there.

2. Wat Arun

Wat Arun - the Temple of Dawn - is positioned on the other side of the river so you'll need a ferry for this one. This can be a bit of an adventure, but Wat Pho is close to the river and ferries run very often. You need to get yourself to the Tha Tien pier. The ferry costs 1 Baht! Wat Arun strikes a fine pose against a Bangkok sunset, but it's perhaps not quite as exciting up close as it is from afar. Still worth a visit though.

This trip will get you out of the idea that Bangkok is a street where each of the bars plays videos and give you some idea of the enormity of the place. There are numerous opportunities to explore the real Bangkok just by being somewhere different. Easy enough to get back to Khao San for more nightlife, or even a quiet night in…

Day 4

1. Wat Traimat

This is good - a 3-meter high Buddha made of solid gold. It really is something worth seeing. It's a bit of a trek though. A little more off track as its found near Hualompong Railway Station - miles from Khao San Road. To get there you'll need a bus - this is where the map you bought comes in. Alternatively, the travel agents on Khao San offer organized trips, but I recommend the bus - it gives you more access to the people, and it means you get the option to take another leg of the same journey. It will also get you in the mood of being a traveller and give you a chance to have a little look around.

2. Siam Square

By now you will be 'templed out' so you should do something different. From Wat Traimat get up to Siam Square. As far as Bangkok goes, this is as hip as it gets! All of the cool shopping centres are in the area (Mahboon Krong, Discovery Center, etc.), you can see all the familiar names - Starbucks, Pizza Hut, etc., and there are tons of little coffee places where students from nearby Chulaongkorn University hang out (Thailand's leading university). This is the 21st century you haven't seen over the last couple of days and it's a great place to explore. If you want to eat there are a number of alternatives. If you are flush, Siam Square is the base for Bangkok's Hard Rock Cafe. There are also some genuinely good bands at this place. However, if it's authenticity you are after, try the New Light Cafe - right next to the Hard Rock Cafe. Known locally as the 'No Light' or "low Life" because it's basically pitch dark inside, the New Light Cafe is a good place. About the third of the price of the Hard Rock Cafe, and at lunchtime the place fills up students from Chulalongkorn University.

If you are really on a tight budget, never mind - ask for the British Council ("British Council You-Ny?") and you'll see there is a road right next to it on the left… go down that road until you see some steps going under the building on your right. Go down the steps and you can see Chualongkorn University's subsidized student canteen! Good Thai food at a very cheap price (about 12 Baht a dish). You can catch a movie here for 100 Baht (about $US 2.50).

Day 5

1. The Weekend Market

If you want to do some serious shopping and see some serious sites, get to the Weekend Market. Known locally as Chatuchak Market, the Weekend Market represents a challenge. If you are excessively tall or excessively obese, you aren't going to have too much fun here! Every Saturday and Sunday about 75% of all humanity crams into a covered area of about 30 acres opposite the Northern Bus Station on Phahonyothin Road. Why are they there? The search for bargains! The Weekend Market offers fruits, vegetables, handicrafts, clothing, pets, shoes - whatever! There is literally nothing you can't get here. How much you can take home with you is another question, so don't go over the top. Chatuchak is best approached with a mission in mind. Go for something specific. And often enough, it's not as cheap as people think. Barter as much as you can because as a tourist there's a possibility that stallholders will over charge! Open on Saturdays and Sundays from 7.00 a.m. - 6.00 p.m. Now you know where Siam Square is you can get up there and then get on the Skytrain to Morchit Station - you can't miss it because it's the last station. Get down on the left and you are about 5 mins away from Chatuchak's entrance. This will take a day, so if you are around at the weekend, try this…

2. Boat Trip

A great day out can be had by simply going down to the Chapaya River, getting on a ferry towards Nonthaburi and just getting off at the various stops along the way. Nothing here is designed for tourists - you'll see temples that are off the beaten track and see life the way most Thais live it. As I said before, it's not really up to me to tell you where to go, so getting talking to people and figure out things for yourself - that's the most exciting thing about travelling - picking up on someone's advice, figuring it out, doing it, and enjoying it. Believe me, even though you might not want to because you think it's silly, you'll be proud of yourself if you do things this way. Another top tip… Always keep a couple of hundred Baht in your wallet if you are going to head out and do things 'on the fly' - if it goes wrong and you get lost, 200 Baht will be an ample sum to get you back where you started! Make sure you have that address card for your guesthouse or written instructions from the owners that you can show the taxi driver…

Getting Around

Although it's pretty daunting at first, if you decide to investigate things yourself you'll soon start working out it's actually not that bad getting around Bangkok. There's an excellent bus system and a new Skytrain (an elevated railway) that caters for a lot of the city. You can get around a good chunk of the city by regular train, and of course, if you are looking for absolute convenience, there are about two taxis for each potential customer, all moderately priced. In addition, there are 'Tuk-Tuks' - three-wheeled rickshaw type vehicles that have pretty much become the symbol of Bangkok, if not Thailand. Small, uncomfortable, fast, and fun! The intrepid use boats. There's an express boat along the Chao Phraya river which heads out to some major destinations, and 'Klong' (canal) boats dart around the waterways that once made Bangkok known as the 'Venice of the East'.

My advice? Before you leave Bangkok you have to try out every means of transport, especially the Tuk-Tuk's and the canal boats which zip around the waterways and will give you a good idea of what Thai life is really like. If you are not sure at any point on where's best to do any of this either ask at the guesthouse or ask other backpackers who have been around for a while (ask only the trusted ones though to save a great wind-up which you may not find amusing!).

Currency

Get to know the money as quickly as you can - it's much easier to be ripped off if you don't know the true value of the currency you are holding or what it looks like. In the big picture, Thailand's currency is the Baht. These days it has stabilised around 45 Baht to the US Dollar, but the Baht has its off days…and when its not feeling very well it fluctuates! Better to change money on a daily basis rather than change a big chunk when you arrive (note: like everywhere in the world, the exchange rates are worse at the airport than they are elsewhere so get a pile of Baht from home or before you arrive). There's no black-market for dollars or foreign currency and pretty much every bank in the capital offers currency exchange. Like every other country in the world, you get notes and coins which breakdown as follows:

Notes:

1,000 baht / 500 baht / 100 baht / 50 baht / 20 baht / 10 baht

Coins:

10 baht / 5 baht / 1 baht / 50 satang / 25 satang

Important tip about big notes Don't try a taxi if you only have a 500 Baht note or a 1,000 note. The driver is highly unlikely to have change and he/she'll expect YOU to go and hunt for some. When it's raining that can get pretty annoying, as can trying to get change when you don't speak the language! In fact, always make sure you have 'little' money on you - the 'no change' chorus you get when you hold larger notes is pretty annoying.

Costs

What do things cost? Well, by western standards things are pretty reasonable. However, by travellers' standards you have to keep your wits about you. Basically, if you live like a Thai, eating on the street and drinking in local bars, things are pretty cheap. Food A good bowl of noodles or a plate of chicken and fried rice will cost 20-25 Baht (around 50 cents) and a bottle of coke costs 12 Baht. Surprisingly, the same on Khao San Road will cost marginally more - strange considering Khao San is legendary for rock-bottom prices.

However, Khao San has some wicked street food - you can get fried noodles for 10-20 Baht from street stalls. However, possibly a better comparison is junk food - every country has it so it'll give a better idea of prices in general. A Big Mac meal (Big Mac, Coke, small fries) at McDonald's costs 85 Baht. A single hamburger costs 19 Baht.

Clothes You will find clothes shopping very cheap, but beware of fakes, especially at the numerous markets. You can get a regular T-shirt from 70 Baht-200 Baht (US$1.50-US$4.50), good shoes cost about 400-450 Baht (about US$10). Night out / beer A night at the cinema costs around 100 Baht (about US$2.5) and, depending on where you buy it, a large bottle of local beer can cost anything between 50 Baht (just over US$1) and 100 Baht (about US$2.5).

Phrases

Over the last few years changes in the Thai education system and the rise of tourism and it's financial impact on the local economy means that a lot of people in Bangkok speak English - outside Bangkok it's a different thing, but in Bangkok things are quite cool as far as English is concerned. However, it is always good to have a basic knowledge of languages and attempting to say a few words here and there will be appreciated! there are some things you should know in Thai:

Hello / Good Morning, etc. Sawadee kap (if you are male) Sawadee ka (if you are female).

Thank You Kop khun kap (male) Kop khun ka (female).

How are you? Sabai dee reu?

Fine, thanks. Sabai dee.

I cannot speak Thai. Put Thai mai dai.

I don't understand. Mai kao chai.

Where is the restroom? Hong nam yoo ti nai?

How much does it cost? Tao-rai kap? (male) Tao-rai ka? (female).

What is this? Nee arai?

Very expensive. Paeng marg.

The bill please. Get tang kap (male) Get tang ka (female).

Goodbye. La gon.

Good luck! Chok dee!

Sorry / excuse me. Kor thort.

I want to go... Yaak ja bai...

Where is...? ...you nai?

Turn left. Leo sai.

Turn right. Leo gwa.

Straight Ahead. Dong bai.

Stop here. Yut tee nee.

Slow down. Cha-cha.

Airport. Sanam bin.

Bus Station. Satanee rot mae.

Railway Station. Satanee rot fai.

Police Station. Satanee dam-ruet.

Hotel. Rung-ram.

Embassy. Sa-tantoot.

Hospital. Rong-payaban.

Post Office. Prai-sanee.

Market. Talaat.

Tips and hints

• Never, ever, ever, say anything bad about Thailand's Royal Family. Thais can get more annoyed than you could ever imagine if you do. You could also end up in trouble - laissez majeste is a crime in Thailand.
• A lot of guidebooks say don't get angry, and I agree - it won't do you any good at all - but that doesn't mean go with everything that happens. If you need to get your way, stay resolute without getting angry. Be firm, but remain polite.
• If it sound too good to be true, it is - it's as simple as that! Don't even think about buying gems in Thailand - EVERYONE WHO DOES GETS RIPPED OFF.
• If a tuk-tuk driver comes to you and claims he'll take you everywhere you want to go for one hour for 10 Baht, walk on. He'll just take you to a shop or a tailors where the owner will harass you until you either buy something or attempt to kill someone - neither a good idea.
• Don't judge - it's not a matter of first world or third world, we're all together in the same boat at the same point in space and time. As such it's not a matter of Thailand or anywhere else catching up - it's about places being different, which is why you are travelling in the first place.
• Remember what the Thai tourism authorities say - Thai people are Thai people, they'll rarely burst into conversation with people they don't know. If you are at an embassy or a similar official place, beware of well-dressed people who happen to be around, happen to speak your language fluently and happen to come up to you and start chatting. Gangs exist that are fronted by some very credible people who win your confidence and then take you to see their friend or a relative where you can buy lots of different things at low, low prices. Of course they'll be shipped to you back home… honest!
• Remember - for everything bad you've heard about Bangkok, you've probably heard a couple of good things as well. Bear that in mind and apply caution in the same ratio.
• Don't under any circumstances take drugs - random urine tests are common and you'll get to stay here a long time at the government's expense if you are caught. · Remember - the longer you stay in Thailand, the less you know. Keep your mind open so there's room for things to fit in upside- down or even sideways!